The Roving Marrow @ The Astor

One of Melbourne’s buzziest food strips welcomes back a local icon as The Astor on Carlton’s Lygon Street reopens with an innovative new restaurant and bar concept. 

Within The Astor is The Roving Marrow dining room, which was formerly Percy’s Bar and Bistro run by four–time Carlton premiership player Peter ‘Percy’ Jones. The Roving Marrow is a significant part of The Astor’s transformation by restaurateur Darran Smith and head chef Hayden McMillan. The menu is produce-driven and features contemporary European cuisine with interactive, yum cha-style service. 

The result is a unique dining experience that aims to break down the formality of fine dining and bring the fun back to food. The menu is designed to share with a wide assortment of smaller dishes served via trolley and tray and more substantial mains, as well as cheese and dessert, à La Carte. 

The kitchen is in safe hands under the guidance of Head Chef Hayden McMillan. McMillan is a young gun of New Zealand’s epicurean scene, having previously worked with renowned New Zealand chefs Michael Meredith and Simon Wright and was made head chef of Auckland’s Tribeca restaurant very early in his career. Most recently McMillan returned from San Francisco where he headed up the Waiheke Island Yacht Club pop up for the America’s Cup.

The Astor’s interior is focused on preserving the hotel’s original character with a modern refresh. The atmosphere is moody courtesy of being grounded in dark wood with rich finishes in brass and mirror that are hardwearing and age gracefully.

We commenced our dinner with a number of delicious small dishes from the “yum cha” service. 

Our favourite entree, the shortrib dumplings in masterstock was flavoursome, well-seasoned and boasted rich flavours.  It was a perfectly executed, expertly balanced and intelligent dish. 

Yet another highlight was the dish of duck salad. The slices of duck breast were cooked to perfection with the beautifully crisp hazelnuts and caramelised brussel sprouts adding texture and the bits of bacon adding salinity. 

Continuing the trend of stunning dishes that preceded it, the dish of Flinders Island lamb rump, charcoal eggplant, ricotta and brie impressed. The lamp rump was cooked perfectly to a tender and juicy pink. The charcoal eggplant boasted a wonderful smokiness which paired exceptionally with the ricotta and brie. A wonderful finale to our savoury courses.

Our first dessert of Granny Smiths, butterscotch, buckwheat and cardamom was an interplay between interesting textures and seductive aromas.

The striking dessert of passionfruit, white chocolate, liquorice and coconut was an explosion of flavours. The layer of meringue was delicately thin and crisp and paired beautifully with the mellow and luxurious white chocolate. The tartness of the passionfruit produced a balanced dessert.

The Roving Marrow’s approach to food stands out from what is commonly available in upmarket restaurants. Thought-provoking but not pretentious, The Roving Marrow is a welcome addition to Melbourne’s food scene.

Location: 418 Lygon St, Carlton

Phone: (03) 9347 7419

Link: http://www.theastorcarlton.com.au/restaurant/

Cuisine: Modern Australian

Gastrology bloggers dined courtesy of The Astor.

Kumo Izakaya

Gastrology bloggers dined courtesy of Kumo Izakaya.

Standing proudly at the corner of Lygon and O'Connor Streets in Brunswick East, Kumo Izakaya and Sake Bar is a Japanese oasis which embraces the social izakaya-style side of Japanese eating and drinking. Offering a laid back environment for catching up with friends and family, Kumo Izakaya focuses on quality food designed to share all of which is served in stylish, modern Japanese surroundings.

Effortlessly blending strong Japanese themes with industrial and Art Deco influences, the restaurant's fit out is a masterstroke. Its symmetrical design features geometric booths with dividers providing flexibility to dine communally or more intimately. Magically lit, the space glows in soft  amber light.

Kumo Izakaya founder and owner Andre Bishop is one of Melbourne's quiet achievers in hospitality. A self-confessed Japanophile and sake connoisseur, he's the man behind the revitalisation of Japanese institution Izakaya Chuji on Lonsdale Street in Melbourne. He also created Izakaya Chuji's South Melbourne offshoot. Andre is also behind Nihonshu Sake & Shochu Bar in Melbourne's CBD, his first venue dedicated to his prime passion of sake.

At Kumo Izakaya, food and sake pairing is a key focus. The exceptional staff are happy to guide diners through the extensive sake menu. We found an exceptional range of sake styles on offer, ranging from floral and fruity to nutty and earthy, all of which are conveniently set out in the sake menu along with tasting notes.

The kitchen is headed by Akimi Iguchi and Eriko Hamabe. Akimi brings exquisite skills to the Kumo kitchen having trained in many top Japanese kitchens as well as Melbourne's Yu-U and Bar Lourinha. Eriko on the other hand worked the kitchens of Kobe Jones and the Royal George Hotel. Together, they bring their unique take on izakaya cuisine.

Left: Chicken Thigh Yakitori Skewers

Right: Uzaku - grilled teriyaki eel with wakame & cucumber pickle

The slices of grilled eel were a delicious appetiser. Stained with teriyaki marinade, the fatty flesh was counteracted by the tart pickle and savoury wakame.

The Chicken Thigh Yakitori Skewers had been sufficiently seasoned and were wonderfully flavoursome. The skewers benefited from a delectable outer charring courtesy of spending the perfect time on the grill. A simple dish, prepared with care and precision.

Premium assorted Sashimi of the day

The sashimi plate featured a variety of sliced raw fish. Each slice of fish had an enjoyably firm yet soft texture. Of particular note were the plump, sweet scallops. It is clear that Kumo Izakaya are using only the freshest, highest quality seafood.

Seared Scallops with Butter & Soy topped with Bonito Flakes

The scallops were perfectly seared and bursting with natural flavour, a flavour further enhanced by the restrained savouriness of the butter & soy sauce. The bonito flakes brought a tremendous savoury element - a magnificent dish.

Shiitake mushroom stuffed Tsukune chicken ball with cheddar cheese & Teriyaki sauce

These savoury ball-shaped dumplings were adorned with melting cheddar and a mushroom base and laced with copious amounts of delicious teriyaki sauce - A simple but very enjoyable treat.

Pumpkin & cream cheese stuffed zucchini flower tempura with green tea salt

The tempura zucchini flowers stuffed with pumpkin & cream cheese and served with green tea salt were fantastic.  The batter encasing the zucchini flower was ethereally light and crisp while the stuffing was rich, flavoursome and exquisitely smooth.  The addition of green tea salt was a masterstroke that was a delightful departure from the norm.

Spicy Black vinegar Karaage Chicken with spring onion

The Japanese bar staple of Karaage Chicken was a delicious sight.  The meaty morsels were encrusted with a flavoursome spice mix and then perfectly fried to achieve a moreish crunchy exterior - dangerously addictive.

Miso marinated grilled kingfish fillet

Our savoury courses concluded with beautifully fresh kingfish which had been cooked to perfection. A light coating of golden-brown, caramelised miso charring added complexity to the soft kingfish flesh.

Dessert platter for two: Baked Green tea & White Chocolate cake with Raspberry compote;

Yuzu infused Cheesecake with cream and Yuzu sauce; and Japanese plum wine mousse with mint infused umeshu Jelly & cream

Unable to decide which desserts to choose, we opted for the dessert platter which comprises an assortment of Kumo Izakaya's Japanese inspired desserts. Each item on the platter was a welcome departure from the ordinary – from the absolutely moreish baked Green tea & White Chocolate cake with Raspberry compote to the smooth, rich consistency of the Yuzu infused Cheesecake, to the vibrant flavours of the Japanese plum wine mousse.  An exemplary display of Kumo Izakaya’s versatility.

Kumo Izakaya is the destination izakaya for Japanophiles who want to get inside the izakaya culture and experience it in an immersive way. Offering a vast array of delicious food, one of the most impressive sake lists in Melbourne and an effortlessly trendy Japanese, industrial chic fit out, Kumo Izakaya is definitely a place to put on your "must visit" list. 

Location: 152 Lygon Street, Brunswick East

Phone: 03 9388 1505

Link: http://www.kumoizakaya.com.au/

Cuisine: Japanese, Wine Bar, Tapas